On Sunday January 29th, 2023, “A legendary pair” was introduced in The New York Times print edition featuring a sleek robin-egg blue shoe-box. This official announcement was accompanied by social media teasers and a minimalist campaign advertising accessories related to the main product, the Tiffany & Co x Nike Air Force 1 “1837”. The black nubuck shoes feature a Tiffany blue swoosh and silver plaque in the back. Set to be released on March 7th, 2023, the first collaboration between the American jewelry-maker and the sneaker manufacturer set to retail at $400 has garnered mixed receptions on social media and in the press.
Certainly, the product itself misses the mark of originality and grandeur that the sneakers community often expects from high caliber collaborations. But the marketing is proving extremely ingenious at reconciling seemingly extremely opposite brands. On paper, what does a high-end luxury brand like Tiffany has to do with the affordable streetwear giant that Nike is? Well, Nike’s simplest and most successful design makes for the most distinguished marriage in order to cater to the high-end identity of Tiffany. While not necessarily a no-brainer, to say the least, this collaboration seems like an obvious move for a Maison which has been trying to cater to a younger audience since being bought by LVMH in 2021.
As described by Christopher Morency in BoF, this collaboration will certainly not help Tiffany gain “Cred” among sneakerheads, but arguably, this might not be the goal. Indeed, the design is fairly simple, not to say boring, and the design team either was unaware of or simply decided to ignore the meme culture around the black Air Force 1 – linked to untrustworthy people. Personally, I doubt a brand like Nike does not stay in touch with the cultural reception of its products, plus, this subcultural reference must be showing in sales figures, leading Nike to investigate the discrepancy between the black and the white colorway. I believe this is a conscious decision by the teams at Tiffany and Nike.
In fact, the goal of such a product is to strike the right balance between Tiffany’s upscale, understated elegance and Nike’s abhorrently accessible identity. While Tiffany has been expanding its set of references, from collaborations with Daniel Arsham to ventures into Web3 to revised modern product designs, it still has a strong high-end history, and is in fact part of the hard luxury category. Affordability is not a main feature of the Tiffany brand. On the other hand, Nike’s expandable reach gives it the flexibility to tweak and redefine its products’ identity through its various collaborations.
From the Dior Air Jordans to the Louis Vuitton Air Force 1, Nike is well acquainted with the LVMH’s Maisons, and its products have proven extremely versatile in creating hype. But this collaboration with Tiffany is different because it is much more understated. Morency argues that it stems from the fact that Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were more in touch with the youth and better able to grasp the cultural zeitgeist. I would argue that it is not only that. Dior and Louis Vuitton have full fledged, hype, fashion and accessory businesses, which, by the way, drive most of the revenues. Tiffany is not a fashion retailer – or at least, not yet, since they’ve rolled out a Valentine’s Day collection of bags and accessories.
This collaboration is the first time the brand collaborates with a retail brand outside of the LVMH umbrella. After last Spring’s activation with Fendi and Marc Jacobs for the 25 years of the iconic baguette bag, this collaboration is the brand’s first effort in creating a retail fashion accessory of their own while retaining some sense of brand identity. And they clearly chose restraint, as reflected in the marketing. In fact, the pair of shoes is probably not the focus, as Tiffany is known for its silver accessories, here a toothbrush, shoe horn, laces and shoe charm, and a whistle – which enjoyed the smartest marketing.
Presenting those with a simple Tiffany blue background and punny labels, the ad campaign that popped on social media cleverly acknowledges understated luxury: simplicity and good taste that pretends it doesn’t know how cool it is. This decided discretion is addressed to consumers that do not necessarily express their opinion online, but who will still buy the product when it comes out. Plus, praise is often less publicly displayed than dismay.
Additionally, I believe Tiffany knows exactly what they are doing. Alexandre Arnault, Executive Vice President of Product and Communications of Tiffany and former CEO of Rimowa has proven time and time again that his collaboration choices have been working. Yes, the products are underwhelming, but the strategy, no doubt, will lead to immediately sold out shoes and accessories (which are, by the way, retailing at way lower prices than the LV and Dior collaborations) and a successful marketing stint.
mabou 